Knitting Seed Stitch or Moss Stitch

 

Okay, I know how to knit but it has been many years since I’ve actually knitted anything and not really sure I ever really completed a project in knitting – maybe in my yarn nightmares.

Well, my daughter and my yarn partner, gave me as a gift 2 skeins of a beautiful Malabrigo Mecha (color Jupiter) about 260 yards and challenged me to knit something with it versus crochet.  And it sat on my computer desk looking at me and oh how I wanted to crochet an awesome cowl for myself, but I finally picked up a pair of bamboo needles and a skein of that yarn and started to cast on stitches.

I did some internet surfing about knitting the seed stitch and the moss stitch.  I like the idea of the textured look they provide and the fact that there is really no right or wrong side to your finished item.

So I decided upon a nice long scarf as my knitted project.  I cast on an even number of stitches (28) and away I went.  I elected to knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2 through my first row.  Second row was purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2 to the end of that row.  Third row was purl 2, knit 2 again and finally the Fourth row started out as a knit 2, purl 2, knit 2 purl 2 to the end of the row.

So I was knitting with an even number of stitches, like the seed stitch but my design was in a 4 row increment of knit/purl, purl/knit,  purl/knit,  knit/purl like the moss stitch.  And doing the same stitch in 2 stitches before alternating to the opposite stitch for 2 times.  Hopefully, I haven’t lost you yet but I really “love” the pattern created with just knitting 2 stitches then purling 2 stitches using the 4 row moss stitch design.

It makes up with a very nice edge, looks the same on either side, which will be perfect for a scarf, and the texture is just what I was looking for.

I have already added on my second skein of yarn and I expect the finished scarf to be about 7″ wide x 60″ long when completed.  I used a size 7 bamboo needle for this project too.

This is a design that I’m sure can be made with a wide variety of different yarn types with appropriate sized needles.  You can cast on whatever stitch count gives you the width you are looking for but remember my pattern was an even number of cast on stitches.  I think most moss stitch designs cast on an odd number of stitches.

Has been fun to share this “knitting” project with my daughter as well as venturing out with some new yarn techniques.  A great way to start off the new year.

HAPPY CREATING!!

 

 

 

Get a Grip on Crochet

I love to crochet and thoroughly enjoy all the fun and interesting projects that evolve from that ever amazing hook.  Getting a grip on your hook is totally a personal preference but if you are new to crochet or wanting to teach someone this art, then I hope this information will help you.

There are mainly 2 styles of gripping your hook – the pencil hold and the knife hold.

I’m a left-handed person for everything but crochet.  Being the only leftie in my family was a true stump factor so if I was going to learn how to do this craft, I had to learn right-handed.  What I have discovered over the years, is that I can keep a good tension on my yarn as I control that with my left hand where my right hand is really only doing one movement going through my loops.

Anyways, how I hold my hook is with the knife style.  I place my thumb on the flat section or thumb rest, my index finger rests on the shaft helping to hold my loop in place, my middle finger sits gently on the back of the hook along the thumb rest and my ring finger and pinkie slightly wrap around the hook and hold it in place against the palm of my hand (this helps to keep the hook from rotating in my hand).

My left-hand thread tension is this:  wrap the yarn under my pinkie finger, over my ring finger, under Mr. Tall Man (the middle finger) and over my index finger.  I hold my work with my left hand using my middle finger and thumb and extend my index finger away from my hook to keep it slightly taut as I use that yarn to make my crochet stitches.

I do not vary from this setup whether I am using a steel hook with thread or a super bulky yarn with a Q hook.

Also, I have found the Susan Bates hooks to be my personal favorites. I like to work with the in-line style hook versus the tapered hook that you find on a Boye design.  I have just been introduced to the Clover Soft grip style hooks and I think I’m going to like them a lot too especially when working with thread designs for doilies, etc.  Experiment and find the type of hook that works the best for you and feels the most comfortable in your hand.  There are tons of choices available.

If you are new to the crocheting bug or teaching someone, maybe begin with a larger hook like a size J or size K.  The fatter hook might help you not to grip too hard and make your stitches too tight.

I still have my very first crochet hook which I believe is a Susan Bates, just is marked as a size 6 or size G.  With some research, I actually believe it is a 4.25 mm as I have the latest size G6/4.00 mm and the size 7/4.50 mm and the shaft is really in between these two hook sizes.  It is always my “go to” hook for most of my projects!!

So “get a grip” and pick up a crochet hook and make that wonderful cozy scarf or baby blanket for yourself or as a gift for that special someone.

HAPPY CREATING!!

 

 

Barbie Fun and Flirty Dress Pattern

You can never have too many Barbie outfits!!  And a simple crochet style dress is an awesome addition to add to her wardrobe.  Here’s my pattern for a fun, flirty style Barbie dress to crochet for that special 12″ doll lover!!

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

I have used a category 2 (fine weight) yarn and a Size E/4 (3.50mm) crochet hook for this dress.  Probably no more than 50 – 75 yards.

The pattern includes the following abbreviation stitches:  HDC – half double crochet and HDC foundation stitch, SC – single crochet, INC – increase, DEC – decrease,  BLO – back loop only, SL – slip stitch, CH – chain, DC – double crochet

This entire pattern is worked in the round.

Begin your dress by completing:

22 HDC Foundation Stitches, SL join into top of 1st stitch.  Be sure to leave a longer tail at the beginning so you have a thread to stitch up the join.

22 HDC Foundation Chain

22 HDC Foundation Chain

Rows 2 – 10 will be all SC (22 stitches).  At the end of each row join your round using your preferred method.  I like to use the no-cut joining method found here on Planet June blog.

Row 11 – 4 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,      1 hdc dec,   4 hdc,   1 hdc dec. (18 stitches)  join

Row 12 & 13 – 18 SC  join

 

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Row 14 – 8 sc,   1 sc inc,  8 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (20 stitches)

Row 15 – 9 sc,  1 sc inc,  9 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (22 stitches)

Row 16 – 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (26 stitches)

Row 17 – 6 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc, 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  6 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (30 stitches)

Row 18 – 30 SC join

Row 19 –  CH 1,  30 HDC in BLO, join

Row 20 – 25 – repeat row 19

At this point,  you can really decide how long you want your skirt to be.  You could add a couple more of the HDC, BLO rows if you wish or maybe you actually want less rows to make the dress shorter.   Also, if you want this look,

No ruffled bottom edge style.

No ruffled bottom edge style.

you can end your dress here and just do one row of SL stitches for a finished edge.  Just fasten off and weave in your ends at the bottom and join at the neckline.

If you want to add the ruffled look here is what you will need to do.

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Row 26 – CH 2,  crochet 2 DC in each of the HDC going through both loops of the HDC stitch.  Join.

Row 27 – CH 2, crochet 3 DC in each of the DC stitches.  Join

Fasten off and weave in all ends.  Again, make sure you join together your 22 HDC Foundation stitches together.

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Back view

Back view

 

 

 

 

 

One of my favorite things about this dress is the simplistic ability to slip it on.  It can be slightly snug going over her hips (my Barbie is the belly button style doll) but shouldn’t really pose any issues for children to dress the doll.  There is really no definite front or back to the dress either so however it is slipped on works.  Actually, you can put the joining seam at the side of the dress and your front and back looks seamless.

Please feel free to make this fun dress for all your Barbie enthusiasts.   I have no issues if you want to make this dress and sell it (providing you are the one doing the actual crocheting), however, please do not distribute, copy or publish the pattern as your own. Should you elect to sell your finished products, please reference my blog www.stitch4ever.com as the pattern designer.

HAPPY CREATING!!

Barbie Crochet Dress Pattern

I’ve been in a Barbie doll crocheting mood recently – must be reflecting back on my childhood days when I played with my Barbie all the time 🙂

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I prefer to crochet my Barbie clothing in fingering/light weight cottons or sock yarns which give you such fun color combos.   My hook size is usually a size C (2.75mm) especially for a form fitting top and then I increase to a size D (3.25mm) or E (3.50mm) for the skirt and ruffles.  These sizes are Susan Bates Silvalume Crochet hooks, by far, my favorite hook!!

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After searching around, I did come across a fun, bohemian/peasant style dress that I liked.  So I hooked two variations of the pattern – making one style a full, twirly skirt and the other just a fuller style.  I added ruffles and reverse crochet along the bottom edges.   My dresses are a little snug to slide on and off because I wanted the top portion to fit securely.  You can always add straps if you want your dress to have a looser fit around the top.

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You can find the cute original dress pattern at linmary123.

I did crochet the sun hat like the original pattern and I think it adds a nice finished look to the dress.  Used my own shoulder strap purse pattern as a perfect accessory for Barbie’s outfits.

Fun, flirty dress

Fun, flirty dress

Out on the town dress

Out on the town dress

 

 

 

 

Well now, I’m on a roll so I worked up my own design for a form fitting dress that you can easily adjust the size to fit whatever style Barbie doll you have.  Also, this pattern accommodates a fun flirty look or a dressier evening out on the town style.  You can find this pattern here in the next couple of days.

Have fun crocheting clothing for your Barbie dolls.  These make awesome handmade gifts too.  I always try to look for patterns that make it easy for putting on and taking off too for those little ones who enjoy Barbies but sometimes a “good style” requires a little more work to slide into 🙂

These are great crochet projects that are good for a beginner too. Use up those little leftover balls of yarn from your stash and have fun mixing your colors too.  And don’t forget about adding buttons and beads to give your outfits that pizzazz!!

TIP:  My Barbie is a Belly Button style doll so you might need to increase/decrease in places to fit your specific doll.

HAPPY CREATING!!  

 

Crochet Barbie Cross Over Body Bag

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Use leftover scrap yarn probably around 10 – 30 yards depending upon type of yarn and size of hook used.  In my finished design, I used a Size C (2.75mm) hook and a Fine (2) cotton yarn.

DIRECTIONS:

Chain 13

Make 2 single crochets (sc) in 2nd chain from hook.

Continue by making 10 sc.

In last chain make 2 sc in that stitch

Continuing around make 10 sc down the back side of your starting chain.  Slip stitch (sl st) join in last chain.

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Chain 1

2 sc in each of the next 2 sc stitches.

10 sc

2 sc in each of the next 2 sc stitches

10 sc

Sl st join in chain 1

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Chain 1

1 sc in each stitch around back loop only (blo) for 29 stitches

Sl st join in chain 1

Chain 2

29 half double crochets (hdc) in front loop only (flo).

Sl st join in top of chain 2

Sl st into 1 hdc and chain 3

29 double crochets (dc) in blo.

Sl st join in top of chain 3

Chain 2

1 hdc crochet in next stitch in flo

*crochet 2 half double crochets together (2hdctog) in flo

1 hdc in next stitch

1 hdc in next stitch

crochet 2hdctog – repeat from * around ending round with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Sl st join into top of chain 2

Chain 1 and sc in same stitch

*Crochet 2sctog, next stitch 1 sc, 2sctog, 1 sc  – repeat from * around ending with 1 sc

Sl st join in sc

Crochet 30 chains or as many as you would like, smaller chain (15 chains) for a handbag or more chains for a cross body tote (45 chains).  Remove hook and insert into 8th or 9th stitch from beginning from outside edge of bag and pull loop through.  Slip hook through back loop of same stitch and last chain of strap (3 loops on hook) yarn over (y0) and pull through all three loops.  Crochet along chain making sc heading back to beginning side.  Remove hook and from the outside of purse, insert hook through same loop and pull through, yo and pull through all loops on hook.

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Continue around top edge of purse making 16 slip stitches and fasten off.  Decorate with a button, flower or just leave as is 🙂

As always, I ask that you DO NOT SELL this pattern or claim it as your own.  I have no problems with you selling items made from this pattern but would be very grateful if you would please acknowledge my website www.stitch4ever.com as the creator of this pattern.  Thank you and as always:

HAPPY CREATING!! 

 

 

 

 

 

DIY Yarn Holder

Found this idea on Pinterest and revamped it to fit my space and the yarn that I wanted it to hold.  This was a really quick project to complete and I love it.  Filled a relatively useless space to store tons of yarn and it is very easy to see the color I want at a glance.

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I purchased 4″ diameter PVC pipes and cut them into 11″ long tubes.  Sanded the edges smooth and glued them together using PVC contact cement/glue.  Was a little wobbly so I used a small L bracket/angle iron and attached to the inside of one tube and then attached to the wall.  Try to find a stud in the wall to make it very secure.

Then the fun began, stuffing the tubes with the acrylic yarns that I use.  This idea is very versatile and can be designed in many ways to fit your space and store your goodies 🙂

HAPPY CREATING!!

Valentine’s Day Heart – Updated Pattern

Here’s another quick (a little different) version to my fun, little crocheted applique heart pattern.

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My example here, I have used a size G crochet hook and some acrylic yarn.

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With this pattern, I began by crocheting the “magic loop” and making 12 HDC.

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Slip stitch in the 1st HDC to join your loop making a circle.  You can pull a little bit on the magic loop tail but don’t pull it totally closed until you  have completed your heart.

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Make another slip stitch (SL) in the next HDC stitch.  Chain 4 and crochet 2 treble crochets in that same space.

In 3rd HDC ~~ crochet 3 treble crochets

In 4th HDC ~~ crochet 1 half treble crochet then 1 double crochet

In 5th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 6th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

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In 7th HDC ~~ crochet 1 half treble stitch, 1 treble stitch, 1 half treble stitch (this creates the bottom point of the heart)

In 8th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 9th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 10th HDC ~~ crochet 1 double crochet then 1 half treble crochet

In 11th HDC ~~ crochet 3 treble crochets

In 12th HDC ~~ crochet 2 treble crochets, chain 3 (this is one chain less than the beginning chain which will help create a better curve for the top of your heart), and 1 single crochet.

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Cut your yarn and pull it all the way through the stitch leaving a yarn tail on the right side of your heart.  Now flip your heart to the wrong side and slipping your hook through the very first slip stitch that you made, pull your yarn tail to the back.

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Now you want to take the tail from your magic loop and pull that tight to your liking.  Make a square knot with your two tails and weave in the ends.

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What I love about this pattern is that it lends itself to almost any time of yarn and size hook.  I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I do and send some pictures of what you have done with your hearts 🙂

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Please remember that this is my pattern not for your use to reproduce or redistribute in any way!!  Crocheting your own hearts can be used in any way you want but it would be greatly appreciated if you could give me credit for the design ~ www.stitch4ever.com.    Thanks so much 🙂

HAPPY CREATING!!