Barbie Fun and Flirty Dress Pattern

You can never have too many Barbie outfits!!  And a simple crochet style dress is an awesome addition to add to her wardrobe.  Here’s my pattern for a fun, flirty style Barbie dress to crochet for that special 12″ doll lover!!

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

I have used a category 2 (fine weight) yarn and a Size E/4 (3.50mm) crochet hook for this dress.  Probably no more than 50 – 75 yards.

The pattern includes the following abbreviation stitches:  HDC – half double crochet and HDC foundation stitch, SC – single crochet, INC – increase, DEC – decrease,  BLO – back loop only, SL – slip stitch, CH – chain, DC – double crochet

This entire pattern is worked in the round.

Begin your dress by completing:

22 HDC Foundation Stitches, SL join into top of 1st stitch.  Be sure to leave a longer tail at the beginning so you have a thread to stitch up the join.

22 HDC Foundation Chain

22 HDC Foundation Chain

Rows 2 – 10 will be all SC (22 stitches).  At the end of each row join your round using your preferred method.  I like to use the no-cut joining method found here on Planet June blog.

Row 11 – 4 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,      1 hdc dec,   4 hdc,   1 hdc dec. (18 stitches)  join

Row 12 & 13 – 18 SC  join

 

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Row 14 – 8 sc,   1 sc inc,  8 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (20 stitches)

Row 15 – 9 sc,  1 sc inc,  9 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (22 stitches)

Row 16 – 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (26 stitches)

Row 17 – 6 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc, 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  6 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (30 stitches)

Row 18 – 30 SC join

Row 19 –  CH 1,  30 HDC in BLO, join

Row 20 – 25 – repeat row 19

At this point,  you can really decide how long you want your skirt to be.  You could add a couple more of the HDC, BLO rows if you wish or maybe you actually want less rows to make the dress shorter.   Also, if you want this look,

No ruffled bottom edge style.

No ruffled bottom edge style.

you can end your dress here and just do one row of SL stitches for a finished edge.  Just fasten off and weave in your ends at the bottom and join at the neckline.

If you want to add the ruffled look here is what you will need to do.

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Row 26 – CH 2,  crochet 2 DC in each of the HDC going through both loops of the HDC stitch.  Join.

Row 27 – CH 2, crochet 3 DC in each of the DC stitches.  Join

Fasten off and weave in all ends.  Again, make sure you join together your 22 HDC Foundation stitches together.

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Back view

Back view

 

 

 

 

 

One of my favorite things about this dress is the simplistic ability to slip it on.  It can be slightly snug going over her hips (my Barbie is the belly button style doll) but shouldn’t really pose any issues for children to dress the doll.  There is really no definite front or back to the dress either so however it is slipped on works.  Actually, you can put the joining seam at the side of the dress and your front and back looks seamless.

Please feel free to make this fun dress for all your Barbie enthusiasts.   I have no issues if you want to make this dress and sell it (providing you are the one doing the actual crocheting), however, please do not distribute, copy or publish the pattern as your own. Should you elect to sell your finished products, please reference my blog www.stitch4ever.com as the pattern designer.

HAPPY CREATING!!

Barbie Crochet Dress Pattern

I’ve been in a Barbie doll crocheting mood recently – must be reflecting back on my childhood days when I played with my Barbie all the time 🙂

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I prefer to crochet my Barbie clothing in fingering/light weight cottons or sock yarns which give you such fun color combos.   My hook size is usually a size C (2.75mm) especially for a form fitting top and then I increase to a size D (3.25mm) or E (3.50mm) for the skirt and ruffles.  These sizes are Susan Bates Silvalume Crochet hooks, by far, my favorite hook!!

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After searching around, I did come across a fun, bohemian/peasant style dress that I liked.  So I hooked two variations of the pattern – making one style a full, twirly skirt and the other just a fuller style.  I added ruffles and reverse crochet along the bottom edges.   My dresses are a little snug to slide on and off because I wanted the top portion to fit securely.  You can always add straps if you want your dress to have a looser fit around the top.

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You can find the cute original dress pattern at linmary123.

I did crochet the sun hat like the original pattern and I think it adds a nice finished look to the dress.  Used my own shoulder strap purse pattern as a perfect accessory for Barbie’s outfits.

Fun, flirty dress

Fun, flirty dress

Out on the town dress

Out on the town dress

 

 

 

 

Well now, I’m on a roll so I worked up my own design for a form fitting dress that you can easily adjust the size to fit whatever style Barbie doll you have.  Also, this pattern accommodates a fun flirty look or a dressier evening out on the town style.  You can find this pattern here in the next couple of days.

Have fun crocheting clothing for your Barbie dolls.  These make awesome handmade gifts too.  I always try to look for patterns that make it easy for putting on and taking off too for those little ones who enjoy Barbies but sometimes a “good style” requires a little more work to slide into 🙂

These are great crochet projects that are good for a beginner too. Use up those little leftover balls of yarn from your stash and have fun mixing your colors too.  And don’t forget about adding buttons and beads to give your outfits that pizzazz!!

TIP:  My Barbie is a Belly Button style doll so you might need to increase/decrease in places to fit your specific doll.

HAPPY CREATING!!  

 

Crochet Barbie Cross Over Body Bag

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Use leftover scrap yarn probably around 10 – 30 yards depending upon type of yarn and size of hook used.  In my finished design, I used a Size C (2.75mm) hook and a Fine (2) cotton yarn.

DIRECTIONS:

Chain 13

Make 2 single crochets (sc) in 2nd chain from hook.

Continue by making 10 sc.

In last chain make 2 sc in that stitch

Continuing around make 10 sc down the back side of your starting chain.  Slip stitch (sl st) join in last chain.

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Chain 1

2 sc in each of the next 2 sc stitches.

10 sc

2 sc in each of the next 2 sc stitches

10 sc

Sl st join in chain 1

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Chain 1

1 sc in each stitch around back loop only (blo) for 29 stitches

Sl st join in chain 1

Chain 2

29 half double crochets (hdc) in front loop only (flo).

Sl st join in top of chain 2

Sl st into 1 hdc and chain 3

29 double crochets (dc) in blo.

Sl st join in top of chain 3

Chain 2

1 hdc crochet in next stitch in flo

*crochet 2 half double crochets together (2hdctog) in flo

1 hdc in next stitch

1 hdc in next stitch

crochet 2hdctog – repeat from * around ending round with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Sl st join into top of chain 2

Chain 1 and sc in same stitch

*Crochet 2sctog, next stitch 1 sc, 2sctog, 1 sc  – repeat from * around ending with 1 sc

Sl st join in sc

Crochet 30 chains or as many as you would like, smaller chain (15 chains) for a handbag or more chains for a cross body tote (45 chains).  Remove hook and insert into 8th or 9th stitch from beginning from outside edge of bag and pull loop through.  Slip hook through back loop of same stitch and last chain of strap (3 loops on hook) yarn over (y0) and pull through all three loops.  Crochet along chain making sc heading back to beginning side.  Remove hook and from the outside of purse, insert hook through same loop and pull through, yo and pull through all loops on hook.

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Continue around top edge of purse making 16 slip stitches and fasten off.  Decorate with a button, flower or just leave as is 🙂

As always, I ask that you DO NOT SELL this pattern or claim it as your own.  I have no problems with you selling items made from this pattern but would be very grateful if you would please acknowledge my website www.stitch4ever.com as the creator of this pattern.  Thank you and as always:

HAPPY CREATING!! 

 

 

 

 

 

DIY Yarn Holder

Found this idea on Pinterest and revamped it to fit my space and the yarn that I wanted it to hold.  This was a really quick project to complete and I love it.  Filled a relatively useless space to store tons of yarn and it is very easy to see the color I want at a glance.

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I purchased 4″ diameter PVC pipes and cut them into 11″ long tubes.  Sanded the edges smooth and glued them together using PVC contact cement/glue.  Was a little wobbly so I used a small L bracket/angle iron and attached to the inside of one tube and then attached to the wall.  Try to find a stud in the wall to make it very secure.

Then the fun began, stuffing the tubes with the acrylic yarns that I use.  This idea is very versatile and can be designed in many ways to fit your space and store your goodies 🙂

HAPPY CREATING!!

Valentine’s Day Heart – Updated Pattern

Here’s another quick (a little different) version to my fun, little crocheted applique heart pattern.

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My example here, I have used a size G crochet hook and some acrylic yarn.

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With this pattern, I began by crocheting the “magic loop” and making 12 HDC.

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Slip stitch in the 1st HDC to join your loop making a circle.  You can pull a little bit on the magic loop tail but don’t pull it totally closed until you  have completed your heart.

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Make another slip stitch (SL) in the next HDC stitch.  Chain 4 and crochet 2 treble crochets in that same space.

In 3rd HDC ~~ crochet 3 treble crochets

In 4th HDC ~~ crochet 1 half treble crochet then 1 double crochet

In 5th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 6th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

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In 7th HDC ~~ crochet 1 half treble stitch, 1 treble stitch, 1 half treble stitch (this creates the bottom point of the heart)

In 8th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 9th HDC ~~ crochet 2 double crochets

In 10th HDC ~~ crochet 1 double crochet then 1 half treble crochet

In 11th HDC ~~ crochet 3 treble crochets

In 12th HDC ~~ crochet 2 treble crochets, chain 3 (this is one chain less than the beginning chain which will help create a better curve for the top of your heart), and 1 single crochet.

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Cut your yarn and pull it all the way through the stitch leaving a yarn tail on the right side of your heart.  Now flip your heart to the wrong side and slipping your hook through the very first slip stitch that you made, pull your yarn tail to the back.

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Now you want to take the tail from your magic loop and pull that tight to your liking.  Make a square knot with your two tails and weave in the ends.

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What I love about this pattern is that it lends itself to almost any time of yarn and size hook.  I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I do and send some pictures of what you have done with your hearts 🙂

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Please remember that this is my pattern not for your use to reproduce or redistribute in any way!!  Crocheting your own hearts can be used in any way you want but it would be greatly appreciated if you could give me credit for the design ~ www.stitch4ever.com.    Thanks so much 🙂

HAPPY CREATING!!

Dyeing Yarn, My Experience – Guest Blogger

Dyeing yarn….. A scary but fun adventure…..Guest Blogger Jess Eisert.….find her on Ravelry.com

About 2 months ago, I was perusing a local yarn store not finding EXACTLY what I wanted.  I’m willing to admit I’m a hard person when it comes to buying that perfect yarn.  I don’t want a wool yarn unless it’s soft ~ I don’t want a super slick yarn that will fall of my needles constantly ~ I don’t like too much texture in my yarn ~I have to have color with it ~ And the price has to be Just Right!!  OK, let’s face it, I’m a yarn snob.

So back to my adventure at the yarn store where there seems to be 1,000’s of skeins of yarn and NOTHING is “calling” my name.  As I headed down the last aisle, way in the back, I come across this very unassuming, plain white skein of yarn.  Still not sure what made me pick it up but hey it’s got some sparkle in there.  Upon closer examination, I discover it is a Plymouth Yarn Dye for Me Suri Alpaca Merino Glow (say that 3 times fast) ~consisting of 80% Suri Alpaca, 15% Merino Wool and 5% Stellina made in Peru.

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There is 1,094 yards on this lace weight skein for just $18.00 (enough for a whole project).  Wow, got my juices flowing but dyeing ~ never attempted that before ~  always a 1st time for everything ~ so I made my purchase and headed home to surf the net for ideas, directions, suggestions!!

After much research, I found some helpful information so now off to the big box store to find types of dye.  Lots of different brands to choose from but I decided upon Dylon Permanent Fabric dye.  Of course, I had to select 6 different colors too!!!  Used a Tulip brand for my purple color as that was the only one available ~ go figure!!

Spent about $18.00 on my 6 packages of dye and  I purchased some plastic squeeze bottles too for good control over where I wanted to place my colors.

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Now I was ready ~ first I had to soak the yarn in a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and cold water for 24 hours.  All those worrisome thoughts were running through my head, but after the 24 hour soak, the yarn was ready for the next step and was still in a nice workable hank 🙂

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Remove the skein of yarn from the soaking mixture and pat dry so it is just DAMP to the touch not dripping.  Now I laid paper towels out and then placed several layers plastic wrap over them to make sure all my seams were covered.

 

Now the fun part ~ dyeing!!  Follow the manufacturer’s directions but I used a pinch of salt (didn’t measure), 2 cups of luke warm water, and half the dye package.  Which was way too much dye, just a fourth of the package would have been sufficient.

I was going for a rainbow effect and was very pleased with how everything was going at this point.  I didn’t wear gloves but you could wear some latex gloves if you don’t want to get any dye on your hands.

Pictured here is what I ended up with after I squeezed dye onto the yarn.  I recommend that you kind of move the yarn around with the tip of the bottle to make sure that you get your dye through all the yarn.

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HINT:  Start with your lightest colors first (yellow, orange, green, red, blue, purple)

At this point, you want to seal the skein of yarn with the plastic wrap.  I essentially folded one long side over the yarn, folded the other long side over, then the ends and then folded this tube in half then in half again.  (Your goal is to just keep the dye from going everywhere during the steaming process).   Now you were suppose to place your wrapped yarn inside a double boiler for 45 – 60 minutes with the lid on the pot.

Oooh ~ my lack of patience and my thought that I was going to end up with a big felted piece made me deviate from the instructions!!!   So I “cooked” it for only 35 minutes with no lid but my end result   came out as a softer, less vibrant color but perfect for a Spring/Summer project.  I loved it!!!!

Once you have completed the steaming process, place your yarn in the sink to let it cool.  You don’t want to shock the yarn and go straight into cold water as you would end up with a big piece of felt!!    After about 15 minutes, I removed the plastic wrap from the yarn and ran it under cool water in the sink.  Here was what my yarn looked like after the first rinse.  I let it sit for a few minutes and then did another rinse in water.  I did a third rinse as there was still dye coming off the yarn and onto the paper towels.  I let the yarn air dry on the counter top until it was fully dry ~ about 48 hours.    Once dried, I wound my skein and this is what I ended up with.  I’m currently making a Trillian scarf out of it.  (You can find the pattern on Ravelry) and I’m doubling the yarn as I knit it.  I really love how it is turning out.

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With my second dyeing process ~ I used a skein of Apollo from Catnip Yarns, 50% silk & 50% Merino wool.  They sell only natural, undyed yarn.  It’s super soft and more of a chunky weight.

I did everything the same EXCEPT I used only half the amount of dye (1 cup of water, ¼ of the dye package), and I feel, most importantly, I used the double boiler, on a high heat, with the LID on for 50 minutes for steaming.  My end result was the vibrant rainbow that I initially was striving for.

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I know I will attempt this fun and creative process again.  Hope you will give it a try ~ would love to see pictures too 🙂  Check out Dharma Trading Co. for more information on dyeing yarn.

HINT:  I am still using the original dye packages that I purchased and I feel certain that I can create another rainbow skein before I would need to purchase more!!

HAPPY CREATING!!


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knitted Cowl

Still perfecting my knitting skills but am very pleased with my completed light weight cowl, which I added a ruffled flower with a very nice decorative button to give it some pizzazz.

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I used a wonderful Madeleine Tosh DK yarn (Optic) for a cool black and white design. My needles were a size #8 and I completed the entire cowl using the Seed stitch. I’m sure a more experienced knitter would know how to do this in the round but I was more comfortable doing a provisional cast-on http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/invisible-provisional-cast-on   and then completing a three needle bind-off. http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/FEATfall06TT.html

Once I had completed my bind off, I just gathered the cowl (using a long running stitch out of the same yarn) along the bind-off edge, tied if off with a square knot and then sewed on flower and button.

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My finished cowl was approximately 7 1/2″ wide X 26″ long. I just knit until I had used up the entire skein of yarn (225 yards).

Now as a somewhat beginner knitter, I really enjoyed the seed stitch but took me a little bit to figure out the pattern. Directions for the seed stitch just say, knit the purls, and purl the knits and I had to learn what a knit stitch and purl stitch looked like when I began my second row. Actually, it is a good thing to learn because if for some reason you have to put your knitting down in the middle of a row to make yourself that cup of awesome vanilla tea, you can pick it back up and know by looking at your stitch shapes what stitch you need to do next. Check out this site for good pictures of what a knit stitch and purl stitch looks like.  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/04/how-to-knit-seed-stitch/

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Will definitely do another seed stitch pattern again 🙂

HAPPY CREATING!!