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Blocking your Crochet Piece

Apr30

I am always debating whether to block my finished crochet piece??  For me, it all depends upon the type of yarn I have used and what my completed project is — a doily or clothing or afghan.

It is very important to always read what the manufacturer of the yarn recommends when it comes to washing and/or dry cleaning suggestions.  If using a cotton yarn/thread, I like to hand wash my completed project and lay if flat to dry.  When it is almost dry but still slightly damp, I will place it onto my ironing board, cover it with a towel and then use the steam feature on my iron.  Holding the iron very close to the towel without actually placing the iron on the item.  This will give you a smooth finished look without stretching the yarn and eliminate any curling that might have occurred.

One concern with cotton yarn that I always seem to dwell upon is the question of shrinkage.  I haven’t experienced any problems with shrinkage as long as I use cold water and air dry.  Then block the piece as mentioned above.

When using a wool blend yarn, again follow the manufacturer’s washing/dry cleaning directions, and then, if needed, you can block the piece the same way as described above.   A lot of times, however, when I have completed a project,  I will lay it out flat on a padded surface, spray it lightly with water, and just pat it into shape and let air dry.

I find too that if I am crocheting a sweater, it is a little easier to block or shape your pieces as you crochet them.  Again, laying them out on a padded surface, spray lightly with water and just pat them into their shape and air dry.  Then everything is ready to be joined according to your pattern directions.

You will find there are those projects that really need to be a certain size when completed, i.e., socks, mittens, hats,  some sweaters, and blocking your piece helps you to shape your work to those measurements.   Most importantly, your crocheting GAUGE must be accurate too for the completed project to be the size you need.    Blocking tools are available that you can put your damp project over to assist you in this shaping process.

My daughter and I are presently experimenting with blocking a rather large afghan that seems to curl on the edges.  We are laying it out flat onto a carpeted area that we have laid several towels down first.  Then we will be spritzing it with water, covering it with more large towels and then running a floor steamer over the top of everything.  Again, not touching the project with the steamer itself, just shooting the steam through everything.  Then we will  take the top towels off, pat into shape and let air dry.   We feel confident that this will work and will be much easier to shape since the afghan is a comforter size.

Always trying to keep those “creative juices” flowing!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Preparing Crochet Edges

Feb16

Depending upon my project, here’s a little crochet tip that I like to do which helps to prepare my piece for seaming or joining.

I like to finish off my crochet piece by bordering it with one row of single crochet stitches around the entire square or garment.  I even like to do this when not joining because it gives a nice, clean, professional look to your piece.

Basically, when you get to the end of your pattern, don’t fasten off, just continue around making a single crochet into every stitch within your project.  That border row of single crochet will be where you will place your joining stitches to form your seam.   Here are a few examples showing how to single crochet an edge.  Complete your single crochet on working edge, when you get to the corner,  complete three single crochet stitches in corner to keep edge from curling.  Continue with single crochet on next edge by inserting your needle along the edge stitches.  Keep them spaced fairly even so that your piece doesn’t curl and keep track of how many single crochet stitches you do so that you can do the same amount on the other side edge for a square, rectangle match the east/west sides with same number and the north/south sides with the same amount of stitches.  Next corner do your three single crochet and do one single crochet in each chain stitch so you have the same amount of single crochet stitches across the bottom edge as you do the top edge.  Continue with this pattern until you get back to the beginning corner of your top edge and fasten off.

Working sc along side edge

Showing how I insert hook along side edge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Showing 3 sc in corner stitch

How sc look along your finished piece

If making a garment, you might only want to single crochet along the places that need to be seamed; along sleeve and side seams.  Take into consideration the design and what works best for your particular pattern or design.

 

*TIP FOR JOINING:    Make sure that you use the same type of yarn as your project.  You can use a different color if you want contrast but if your project called for acrylic yarn, then use acrylic yarn for stitching seams or if you used merino wool yarn, then join using merino wool yarn, etc.  You get the picture.

 

HAPPY CREATING!!

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The Mystery of Yarn Unraveled

Jan13

Since I had a comment about yarn, I thought I would take a minute and briefly highlight some facts about crocheting/knitting yarns.  It is so much fun to go to a store and just look and, of course, touch the various skeins of yarn that are on the shelves.  There really is a little more thought needed when purchasing yarn especially for a pattern or project that you have in mind.

When you look at a skein of yarn, there should be a yarn symbol with a number in the center.  Those numbers actually tell you the diameter or weight of the yarn and then you will find a number telling you the yardage/grams/ounces which is how much yarn is in that particular skein.  So you pick up a skein of that luscious purple that you think will make a wonderful scarf and you read that it is a number 4/100 yards.  So you are really purchasing a medium diameter or worsted weight yarn with 100 yards available for your use.   The Standard Weight Guidelines is a great website to check out for all the industry standards used on the labels of various yarns. https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/yarn-weight-system

A simple review of yarn categories and weights is this:

(0) is a LACE weight perfect for shawls or extra find projects

(1) is SUPER FINE  fingering yarn mainly used for socks and/or baby items

(2) is FINE good for baby and sport yarn

(3) is LIGHT good as sport, light worsted for clothing

(4) is MEDIUM worsted weight for afghans and clothing

(5) BULKY for scarves, hats

(6) SUPER BULKY crafts, rugs

On the labels, you will find the company’s recommendations for what the yarn should be used for and what needle size to use.  When just starting out, I would stick with the pattern recommendations for both needle size and yarn diameter/weight to help you get the correct finished size.  Make sure you purchase enough skeins to complete your project using the yardage/gram information.

As you become more proficient, the needle size might be different based on how tight or loose your stitches are (which is called your gauge, a whole new blog) and you will find that you will either use a smaller size or larger size needle(s).   Also, it can be very creative and fun to take a pattern and use a different yarn than what is suggested, the results can be very interesting.  You just need to remember that when changing anything about a pattern, you will have to readjust your yardage amounts which means you will either need to buy more or less skeins of yarn.  Of course, having left overs is always a plus for those small items just needing to be made.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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