Boppin’ with Barbie Again

Was yarn “surfing” through some of my stash bins and found some bright, colorful skeins that inspired me to do some more Barbie clothing. My designs are fitted to the Belly Button Style doll.

Fun and Flirty Dress

Made a couple of dresses using my fun and flirty pattern for those summer outings and then not wanting to “skirt” the issue, designed and crocheted a couple of those for her too!!

Another Fun and Flirty Dress

Nothing fancy about the pictures but I hope you like what you see and get inspired too.

This pattern for these dresses can be found here.  I try to design items that are easy to slide on and off especially made for those young Barbie lovers with “little” hands.

Here are some pictures of my new skirt designs using the slip stitch ribbing technique found on Moogly.  This ribbing really gives a nice stretch and makes it easy to slip on and off your doll.  A little loose around the waist but you could always weave in a gathering ribbon if you want it tighter.

Both of these skirts were made using a sport weight (category 2) yarn and a size E crochet hook.  In my design process, I did make a skirt and top outfit and made a deeper waistband which I felt worked better than my original waistband so my directions will be for that style and not the one you see in the pictures.









Pattern for Pink Skirt

Row 1:  (Waistband)  Chain 6, slip stitch (SL ST) in 2nd chain from  hook and SL ST in next 4 stitches for a total of 5 SL ST.  Chain 1, turn, skip chain and SL ST in next 5 stitches.  Do this for 28 rows,  keep waistband untwisted and SL ST together.

Row 2:  Chain 1, 30 SC spaced evenly around waistband.  SL ST join in first SC

Row 3:  Chain 2, *1DC (double crochet), 1DC, 2DC in next stitch, repeat from * around (40 DC), SL ST join in first DC

Row 4:  Chain 2, 1DC in each stitch around in BLO (back loop only), SL ST join in first DC

Row 5:  Chain 2, 1 FPDC (front post double crochet), 1 BPDC (back post double crochet)  around, SL ST join in first FPDC

Row 6:  Chain 2, Repeat row 5

Row 7:  Chain 2, *1DC, 1DC, 1DC, 2DC in next stitch in BLO, repeat from * around (50DC), SL ST join in first DC

Row 8:  Chain 2, 1 FPDC, 1 BPDC around, SL ST join in first FPDC

Row 9:  Chain 2, Repeat row 8

Row 10:  Chain 1, complete 50 SL stitches around finish off and weave ends.

Here’s what I created using Aunt Lydias baker’s cotton (category 1) and a size C hook  – again using the slip stitch ribbing (6 chains and 5 slip stitches) so no seaming, snaps, or Velcro needed.

Will do another post to share the denim blue skirt pattern too.

Hope you enjoy and any questions, please let me know.  Would love to see your finished outfits too 🙂





Crochet “mini” Bowl

I was making more of my “mini” bowls/baskets.  There are just so many uses for this little item – candy favors, table decorations, baby/bridal showers, small soaps, flowers, paper clips, loose change, ear buds, etc.

I love mixing one variegated cotton yarn with a bright solid cotton yarn for a very Springy look and feel but this item certainly could be hooked up into any color combo that would be perfect for your occasion.   I also really love working with Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn but use what you like and are familiar with.

Here’s the link to this pattern, which makes for a cute bowl style basket:

If you want a more flat bottom, complete round 3 in the BLO (back loop only) to achieve that effect.  Then continue on with the pattern as written.

Hope you enjoy this “mini” basket and would love to see your pictures.


Knitting Seed Stitch or Moss Stitch


Okay, I know how to knit but it has been many years since I’ve actually knitted anything and not really sure I ever really completed a project in knitting – maybe in my yarn nightmares.

Well, my daughter and my yarn partner, gave me as a gift 2 skeins of a beautiful Malabrigo Mecha (color Jupiter) about 260 yards and challenged me to knit something with it versus crochet.  And it sat on my computer desk looking at me and oh how I wanted to crochet an awesome cowl for myself, but I finally picked up a pair of bamboo needles and a skein of that yarn and started to cast on stitches.

I did some internet surfing about knitting the seed stitch and the moss stitch.  I like the idea of the textured look they provide and the fact that there is really no right or wrong side to your finished item.

So I decided upon a nice long scarf as my knitted project.  I cast on an even number of stitches (28) and away I went.  I elected to knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2 through my first row.  Second row was purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2 to the end of that row.  Third row was purl 2, knit 2 again and finally the Fourth row started out as a knit 2, purl 2, knit 2 purl 2 to the end of the row.

So I was knitting with an even number of stitches, like the seed stitch but my design was in a 4 row increment of knit/purl, purl/knit,  purl/knit,  knit/purl like the moss stitch.  And doing the same stitch in 2 stitches before alternating to the opposite stitch for 2 times.  Hopefully, I haven’t lost you yet but I really “love” the pattern created with just knitting 2 stitches then purling 2 stitches using the 4 row moss stitch design.

It makes up with a very nice edge, looks the same on either side, which will be perfect for a scarf, and the texture is just what I was looking for.

I have already added on my second skein of yarn and I expect the finished scarf to be about 7″ wide x 60″ long when completed.  I used a size 7 bamboo needle for this project too.

This is a design that I’m sure can be made with a wide variety of different yarn types with appropriate sized needles.  You can cast on whatever stitch count gives you the width you are looking for but remember my pattern was an even number of cast on stitches.  I think most moss stitch designs cast on an odd number of stitches.

Has been fun to share this “knitting” project with my daughter as well as venturing out with some new yarn techniques.  A great way to start off the new year.





Get a Grip on Crochet

I love to crochet and thoroughly enjoy all the fun and interesting projects that evolve from that ever amazing hook.  Getting a grip on your hook is totally a personal preference but if you are new to crochet or wanting to teach someone this art, then I hope this information will help you.

There are mainly 2 styles of gripping your hook – the pencil hold and the knife hold.

I’m a left-handed person for everything but crochet.  Being the only leftie in my family was a true stump factor so if I was going to learn how to do this craft, I had to learn right-handed.  What I have discovered over the years, is that I can keep a good tension on my yarn as I control that with my left hand where my right hand is really only doing one movement going through my loops.

Anyways, how I hold my hook is with the knife style.  I place my thumb on the flat section or thumb rest, my index finger rests on the shaft helping to hold my loop in place, my middle finger sits gently on the back of the hook along the thumb rest and my ring finger and pinkie slightly wrap around the hook and hold it in place against the palm of my hand (this helps to keep the hook from rotating in my hand).

My left-hand thread tension is this:  wrap the yarn under my pinkie finger, over my ring finger, under Mr. Tall Man (the middle finger) and over my index finger.  I hold my work with my left hand using my middle finger and thumb and extend my index finger away from my hook to keep it slightly taut as I use that yarn to make my crochet stitches.

I do not vary from this setup whether I am using a steel hook with thread or a super bulky yarn with a Q hook.

Also, I have found the Susan Bates hooks to be my personal favorites. I like to work with the in-line style hook versus the tapered hook that you find on a Boye design.  I have just been introduced to the Clover Soft grip style hooks and I think I’m going to like them a lot too especially when working with thread designs for doilies, etc.  Experiment and find the type of hook that works the best for you and feels the most comfortable in your hand.  There are tons of choices available.

If you are new to the crocheting bug or teaching someone, maybe begin with a larger hook like a size J or size K.  The fatter hook might help you not to grip too hard and make your stitches too tight.

I still have my very first crochet hook which I believe is a Susan Bates, just is marked as a size 6 or size G.  With some research, I actually believe it is a 4.25 mm as I have the latest size G6/4.00 mm and the size 7/4.50 mm and the shaft is really in between these two hook sizes.  It is always my “go to” hook for most of my projects!!

So “get a grip” and pick up a crochet hook and make that wonderful cozy scarf or baby blanket for yourself or as a gift for that special someone.




Barbie Fun and Flirty Dress Pattern

You can never have too many Barbie outfits!!  And a simple crochet style dress is an awesome addition to add to her wardrobe.  Here’s my pattern for a fun, flirty style Barbie dress to crochet for that special 12″ doll lover!!

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

I have used a category 2 (sport or baby) fine yarn and a Size E/4 (3.50mm) crochet hook for this dress.  Probably no more than 50 – 75 yards.

The pattern includes the following abbreviation stitches:  HDC – half double crochet and HDC foundation stitch, SC – single crochet, INC – increase, DEC – decrease,  BLO – back loop only, SL – slip stitch, CH – chain, DC – double crochet

This entire pattern is worked in the round.

Begin your dress by completing:

22 HDC Foundation Stitches, SL join into top of 1st stitch.  Be sure to leave a longer tail at the beginning so you have a thread to stitch up the join.

22 HDC Foundation Chain

22 HDC Foundation Chain

Rows 2 – 10 will be all SC (22 stitches).  At the end of each row join your round using your preferred method.  I like to use the no-cut joining method found here on Planet June blog.

Row 11 – 4 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,   1 hdc dec,   3 hdc,      1 hdc dec,   4 hdc,   1 hdc dec. (18 stitches)  join

Row 12 & 13 – 18 SC  join



Row 14 – 8 sc,   1 sc inc,  8 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (20 stitches)

Row 15 – 9 sc,  1 sc inc,  9 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (22 stitches)

Row 16 – 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  4 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc,  join  (26 stitches)

Row 17 – 6 sc,  1 sc inc,  5 sc,  1 sc inc, 5 sc,  1 sc inc,  6 sc,  1 sc inc,  join (30 stitches)

Rows 18 – 30 SC,  join  (30 stitches)

Row 19 –  CH 1,  30 HDC in BLO, join  (30 stitches)

Rows 20 – 25 – repeat row 19  (30 stitches)

At this point,  you can really decide how long you want your skirt to be.  You could add a couple more of the HDC, BLO rows if you wish or maybe you actually want less rows to make the dress shorter.   Also, if you want this look,

No ruffled bottom edge style.

No ruffled bottom edge style.

you can end your dress here and just do one row of SL stitches for a finished edge.  Just fasten off and weave in your ends at the bottom and join at the neckline.

If you want to add the ruffled look here is what you will need to do.








Row 26 – CH 2,  crochet 2 DC in each of the HDC going through both loops of the HDC stitch.  Join.

Row 27 – CH 2, crochet 3 DC in each of the DC stitches.  Join

Fasten off and weave in all ends.  Again, make sure you join together your 22 HDC Foundation stitches together at top.

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Fun and Flirty Dress with Ruffled Edge

Back view

Back view






One of my favorite things about this dress is the simplistic ability to slip it on.  It can be slightly snug going over her hips (my Barbie is the belly button style doll) but shouldn’t really pose any issues for children to dress the doll.  There is really no definite front or back to the dress either so however it is slipped on works.  Actually, you can put the joining seam at the side of the dress and your front and back looks seamless.

Please feel free to make this fun dress for all your Barbie enthusiasts.   I have no issues if you want to make this dress and sell it (providing you are the one doing the actual crocheting), however, please do not distribute, copy or publish the pattern as your own. Should you elect to sell your finished products, please reference my blog as the pattern designer.