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Ironing as you Sew

May5

Your iron is one of your best friends when it comes to sewing, quilting and sometimes even crochet projects.   Sometimes you actually need to iron with it (gliding it back and forth); then there are those times you only want to press with it (holding it in one place); and often times you just want to steam with your iron (holding it above your piece and using the steam feature).   It really is such a versatile tool!!

It is always best to use your iron according to the directions stated within your specific project and make sure your settings are accurate for the type of fabric/material that you are using.   Make sure you have a nice pressing cloth readily available to use with those fabrics that you don’t want to place your iron directly on to.   Also, it is good for you physically to get up and move around, get the old blood following and not sit forever behind your sewing machine.

Using a tailor’s ham with your iron will give your sleeves, shoulders  and/or necklines a very professional finished look.  Depending upon what you are sewing, sometimes just a finger press will do the trick.  I use the side of my thumb nail and rub back and forth along the seam to help hold it in place.  There are some very nice little tools that will give you the same results as your nail too.

I always have my iron and ironing board set up in my sewing/craft room.  You can even set up one of those little ironing boards and place it on your dining room table if that is where you sew.  Most importantly, don’t overlook the importance of pressing seams, facings, hems, etc., your project will love you for it.

Once in a while, be sure to use a good iron cleaner to keep your sole plate clean to help with smooth gliding and insuring nothing yucky gets transferred onto your project!!   I personally like a product called Ez-Off because you can use it directly onto your hot iron and it removes all kinds of residue that I seem to get onto the bottom of my iron.

Enjoy your creating moments but remember too that sometimes those small processes like pressing will really make a big difference within your finished item.

  • TIP:  I use an inexpensive tablecloth as my pressing cloth.  It gives me the options of using a single layer or folding it many times for a thicker pressing cloth.  Also, if using a single layer, I can see through it to my project.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Hold Everything – Let’s Do Straps

Apr18

Making straps does not have to be a struggle and you don’t always have to follow the directions given within your pattern.  That’s what I find so inviting with sewing is that you can “think” outside the box.

I personally do not  like to sew straps with right sides together because after you have sewn your strap, you do have to turn it to the right side.  There are some wonderful tools out there to help you when turning a strap but here’s a method to make a strap without having to bother with the turning process.

First, determine the finished width of your strap –  1/4″   or   1/2″   or   1″  –   or a width that will work best for your project.  Say you have decided to make a 1/2″ wide finished strap, so now you have to figure out the actual cut width of your strap.  For example, if you want a  1/2″  wide finished strap, you need to add  a  1/2″  width of  fabric to each side of your strap plus add another 1/2″ to the actual width to compensate for your folding,  making your cut  width  2″   wide.

    Finished strap width 1/2″   +   1/2″ for fold   +   1″  for sides    =    2″ wide cut strap

This calculation is  the same for whatever strap width you want.   For a finished 1/4″ wide strap,  you would add 1/4″ to each side of your fabric plus  1/4″  for fold,  making a cut width of   1″ wide;  for a  1″  wide completed strap, you need to add  1″  of  fabric to both sides of your strap plus 1″ for fold,  making for a cut width of  4″  wide.

You just double your finished strap width and add that calculation to your finished width and be sure to add another finished width to that total to compensate for the fold and this will determine the width of your strap pattern to cut from your fabric.

Finished width    +   finished width for fold   +   doubled finished width for sides    =    Cut width

Your strap length can be the length used from your specific pattern piece or whatever length you decide would work best for your particular project.

Once you have decided upon your width and length for your strap, go ahead and cut out the strap from your fabric.  Next step is to have your iron ready – set your iron temperature to the setting that will work best for your fabric.  Now press your strap piece with wrong sides together forming a crease right down the middle of your strap.

Pressed wrong sides together to form crease down the center

Let cool and fold over each side edge to meet at that center crease and press in place.  Again, let cool to the touch and fold your strap in half along that creased line and press once more.

Pressed one side up to meet center creasePressed second edge to meet at center crease

 

Both edges pressed to meet center crease

 

Folded pressed edges in half, ready to be top stitched

Now head back to your sewing machine and top stitch close to your strap edge.  You can stitch just along the open edge to close it or you can sew a top stitch line down each side of your strap.  Personal preference for top stitching.

Top stitched edge closed (used contrasting thread for example)Example of top stitching along both edges

Example of top stitching along both edges of strap

Your strap is completed and can now be sewn into place within your project.  Give this method a whirl next time you need to make a strap for anything!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Using those Multi-Sized Children’s Patterns Again!!

Apr17

I guess I am always looking for ways to get the most “bang for my bucks”!!  Here’s another way in which I utilize the most out of a multi-sized child’s pattern.

If you have a rather simplistic pattern (one without a lot of curves or very small details) this procedure works nicely.  Great for shorts, pants, pjs, etc.

What I do is cut out the largest size on the pattern and make some small cuts along the curved edges of the pattern.  For example, if I am cutting out a short pattern, I would make a few cuts/clips  into the pattern piece itself right along the crotch line area.

Next I have my iron hot (cotton setting) and ready.  Then all I do is fold over the edges to the size I want to cut out and iron in place.  As my child grows and I need the next size on the pattern piece, I repress it out completely and then fold over the edges again to the new size and press in place.

This also works great if the pattern is two designs, say for  long pants and shorts.  Again,  just press up the extra pattern piece for the pants and iron in place and cut out for the shorts.  Then press out again for the full size if you decide to make the long pants.  Curved edges are the most tricky, that is why I suggest making a few clips/cuts along that edge so you can fold over that part of the pattern smoothly.

The tissue paper that patterns are made from is pretty durable and will handle multiple ironing and resizing as long as you are somewhat careful especially around those places where you have made clips to accommodate for the curves.

You will get a lot of mileage out of your multi-sized patterns and really be able to use all the different sizes that come with that one pattern!!

Multi-sized pattern piece (1-2-3) – I’ve cut out size 3, long pants

 

Showing how I clipped along curved area

Another picture showing how I clipped curved area

Ironed pattern piece, now ready to cut size 2 shorts

  • TIP:  When cutting out patterns, use scissors that are meant for paper, not your good, sharp fabric scissors.  The paper will eventually dull your scissor blades and make it difficult when cutting fabric.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Working with a Multi-Sized Child’s Sewing Pattern

Apr12

Today’s sewing patterns are very pricey and purchasing a pattern for a child with 3 sizes within one pattern (i.e., 4-5-6)  is a great idea.  However, if you need the smallest size and cut out along the recommended cutting lines then you have discarded the two larger sizes.  And what happens when you want to use that pattern again but now your child is the next size??

Something I like to do is to cut out the largest pattern size and then trace the two smaller sizes onto light weight UNFUSIBLE pellon/interfacing.   Just layout your pattern pieces on a firm surface and place the pellon on top.  You can see through the pellon to trace the other sizes and then cut them out to use when needed.  Most pattern pieces will have 3 separate size pieces for things like facings, so you won’t have to trace them.

Light weight pellon is not very expensive and is readily available at your local fabric store.  It will fold up nicely to go back into your pattern package and you can use your iron to press out any creases too.  I always keeps a couple of yards of unfusible pellon in my very large sewing stash (that’s another blog in itself)!!

Tracing your additional patterns onto pellon is great especially if you have several children you are sewing for or have a favorite pattern that you use over and over again.  The pellon holds up very well with extended use.

Give this a try, takes a little bit of extra time to trace out your pattern pieces but in the long run your budget with love it!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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