Foundation Stitch – No Chain Stitch Necessary

May2

The foundation stitch is another way in which you can begin your crochet project.  All crochet projects start off by doing the chain stitch (ch) so that you have a base in order to complete the next row of stitches according to your pattern directions.

Doing a foundation stitch is a little different than just crocheting a long row of chain stitches.  It is basically a way of doing the single crochet (sc) to form your first row of stitches.  One of the main reasons I will begin a project using the foundation stitch is that it doesn’t seem to end up as tight as a long string of regular chain stitches.  I find that after I have crochet for just a couple of rows, my beginning chain row actually is a little tighter than my other rows, even when I am consciously making an effort to keep my chain stitches loose.

The foundation stitch is great for any project  but I find it is especially great  for afghan patterns when your directions call for you to crochet 100 or more chain stitches.  It is easy to count your stitches and keeps an even tension with your other rows of crochet stitches.

You just crochet the foundation stitch and count it like a regular chain stitch and when you have reached the number of stitches necessary for your project, just add a regular chain stitch (ch) for turning purposes.  Then proceed with your next row according to your pattern directions.

To make a foundation chain, begin by making 2 chain stitches (ch), then insert your hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd chain, yarn over and pull the loop through (2 loops on your hook), yarn over again and pull the loop through ONLY the top loop on your hook (still 2 loops on your hook), then yarn over and pulling through both loops on your hook (now only 1 loop left on hook).  You have just completed one (1) foundation stitch.

Now, you will insert your hook through both strands of the foundation stitch that you just completed, yarn over and pull through those two strands only (2 single loops on hook), yarn over again pulling only through the top loop on hook (2 loops still on hook), yarn over and pull through both of  those loops (1 loop remaining on hook).  Another stitch completed.  Continue in this fashion until you have made all the necessary chain stitches required for your pattern.  Again, be sure to end your row making one or more regular chain stitches for turning purposes.

  • TIP:  Your pattern directions should tell you how many turning chains you need to complete to have the required height for the new row of stitches.  For example, you will need (1) chain stitch, turn and continue with a single crochet; will need (2) turning chain stitches to continue with half-double crochet; need (3)  turning chain stitches for double crochet; (4) turning chain stitches for triple crochet, etc.

Have fun with the foundation stitch because you will discover what a great stitch it is!!  Be sure to click on photos to zoom in for larger image.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Insert in top two loops of 2nd chain – Step 1

Completed after 1st yarn over pulling through chain stitch – Step 2

 

Yarn over and pull through top loop only on hook – Step 3

 

Last yarn over pulling thru both loops – Step 4 – Completed 1st foundation stitch

Insert into top 2 threads of completed foundation stitch – Repeat Steps 2 thru 4

 

Added 2 turning chain stitches for second row of double crochet

Example of how nice and flat the foundation stitch lays as you continue your crocheting

Blocking your Crochet Piece

Apr30

I am always debating whether to block my finished crochet piece??  For me, it all depends upon the type of yarn I have used and what my completed project is — a doily or clothing or afghan.

It is very important to always read what the manufacturer of the yarn recommends when it comes to washing and/or dry cleaning suggestions.  If using a cotton yarn/thread, I like to hand wash my completed project and lay if flat to dry.  When it is almost dry but still slightly damp, I will place it onto my ironing board, cover it with a towel and then use the steam feature on my iron.  Holding the iron very close to the towel without actually placing the iron on the item.  This will give you a smooth finished look without stretching the yarn and eliminate any curling that might have occurred.

One concern with cotton yarn that I always seem to dwell upon is the question of shrinkage.  I haven’t experienced any problems with shrinkage as long as I use cold water and air dry.  Then block the piece as mentioned above.

When using a wool blend yarn, again follow the manufacturer’s washing/dry cleaning directions, and then, if needed, you can block the piece the same way as described above.   A lot of times, however, when I have completed a project,  I will lay it out flat on a padded surface, spray it lightly with water, and just pat it into shape and let air dry.

I find too that if I am crocheting a sweater, it is a little easier to block or shape your pieces as you crochet them.  Again, laying them out on a padded surface, spray lightly with water and just pat them into their shape and air dry.  Then everything is ready to be joined according to your pattern directions.

You will find there are those projects that really need to be a certain size when completed, i.e., socks, mittens, hats,  some sweaters, and blocking your piece helps you to shape your work to those measurements.   Most importantly, your crocheting GAUGE must be accurate too for the completed project to be the size you need.    Blocking tools are available that you can put your damp project over to assist you in this shaping process.

My daughter and I are presently experimenting with blocking a rather large afghan that seems to curl on the edges.  We are laying it out flat onto a carpeted area that we have laid several towels down first.  Then we will be spritzing it with water, covering it with more large towels and then running a floor steamer over the top of everything.  Again, not touching the project with the steamer itself, just shooting the steam through everything.  Then we will  take the top towels off, pat into shape and let air dry.   We feel confident that this will work and will be much easier to shape since the afghan is a comforter size.

Always trying to keep those “creative juices” flowing!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Hold Everything – Let’s Do Straps

Apr18

Making straps does not have to be a struggle and you don’t always have to follow the directions given within your pattern.  That’s what I find so inviting with sewing is that you can “think” outside the box.

I personally do not  like to sew straps with right sides together because after you have sewn your strap, you do have to turn it to the right side.  There are some wonderful tools out there to help you when turning a strap but here’s a method to make a strap without having to bother with the turning process.

First, determine the finished width of your strap –  1/4″   or   1/2″   or   1″  –   or a width that will work best for your project.  Say you have decided to make a 1/2″ wide finished strap, so now you have to figure out the actual cut width of your strap.  For example, if you want a  1/2″  wide finished strap, you need to add  a  1/2″  width of  fabric to each side of your strap plus add another 1/2″ to the actual width to compensate for your folding,  making your cut  width  2″   wide.

    Finished strap width 1/2″   +   1/2″ for fold   +   1″  for sides    =    2″ wide cut strap

This calculation is  the same for whatever strap width you want.   For a finished 1/4″ wide strap,  you would add 1/4″ to each side of your fabric plus  1/4″  for fold,  making a cut width of   1″ wide;  for a  1″  wide completed strap, you need to add  1″  of  fabric to both sides of your strap plus 1″ for fold,  making for a cut width of  4″  wide.

You just double your finished strap width and add that calculation to your finished width and be sure to add another finished width to that total to compensate for the fold and this will determine the width of your strap pattern to cut from your fabric.

Finished width    +   finished width for fold   +   doubled finished width for sides    =    Cut width

Your strap length can be the length used from your specific pattern piece or whatever length you decide would work best for your particular project.

Once you have decided upon your width and length for your strap, go ahead and cut out the strap from your fabric.  Next step is to have your iron ready – set your iron temperature to the setting that will work best for your fabric.  Now press your strap piece with wrong sides together forming a crease right down the middle of your strap.

Pressed wrong sides together to form crease down the center

Let cool and fold over each side edge to meet at that center crease and press in place.  Again, let cool to the touch and fold your strap in half along that creased line and press once more.

Pressed one side up to meet center creasePressed second edge to meet at center crease

 

Both edges pressed to meet center crease

 

Folded pressed edges in half, ready to be top stitched

Now head back to your sewing machine and top stitch close to your strap edge.  You can stitch just along the open edge to close it or you can sew a top stitch line down each side of your strap.  Personal preference for top stitching.

Top stitched edge closed (used contrasting thread for example)Example of top stitching along both edges

Example of top stitching along both edges of strap

Your strap is completed and can now be sewn into place within your project.  Give this method a whirl next time you need to make a strap for anything!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Using those Multi-Sized Children’s Patterns Again!!

Apr17

I guess I am always looking for ways to get the most “bang for my bucks”!!  Here’s another way in which I utilize the most out of a multi-sized child’s pattern.

If you have a rather simplistic pattern (one without a lot of curves or very small details) this procedure works nicely.  Great for shorts, pants, pjs, etc.

What I do is cut out the largest size on the pattern and make some small cuts along the curved edges of the pattern.  For example, if I am cutting out a short pattern, I would make a few cuts/clips  into the pattern piece itself right along the crotch line area.

Next I have my iron hot (cotton setting) and ready.  Then all I do is fold over the edges to the size I want to cut out and iron in place.  As my child grows and I need the next size on the pattern piece, I repress it out completely and then fold over the edges again to the new size and press in place.

This also works great if the pattern is two designs, say for  long pants and shorts.  Again,  just press up the extra pattern piece for the pants and iron in place and cut out for the shorts.  Then press out again for the full size if you decide to make the long pants.  Curved edges are the most tricky, that is why I suggest making a few clips/cuts along that edge so you can fold over that part of the pattern smoothly.

The tissue paper that patterns are made from is pretty durable and will handle multiple ironing and resizing as long as you are somewhat careful especially around those places where you have made clips to accommodate for the curves.

You will get a lot of mileage out of your multi-sized patterns and really be able to use all the different sizes that come with that one pattern!!

Multi-sized pattern piece (1-2-3) – I’ve cut out size 3, long pants

 

Showing how I clipped along curved area

Another picture showing how I clipped curved area

Ironed pattern piece, now ready to cut size 2 shorts

  • TIP:  When cutting out patterns, use scissors that are meant for paper, not your good, sharp fabric scissors.  The paper will eventually dull your scissor blades and make it difficult when cutting fabric.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Working with a Multi-Sized Child’s Sewing Pattern

Apr12

Today’s sewing patterns are very pricey and purchasing a pattern for a child with 3 sizes within one pattern (i.e., 4-5-6)  is a great idea.  However, if you need the smallest size and cut out along the recommended cutting lines then you have discarded the two larger sizes.  And what happens when you want to use that pattern again but now your child is the next size??

Something I like to do is to cut out the largest pattern size and then trace the two smaller sizes onto light weight UNFUSIBLE pellon/interfacing.   Just layout your pattern pieces on a firm surface and place the pellon on top.  You can see through the pellon to trace the other sizes and then cut them out to use when needed.  Most pattern pieces will have 3 separate size pieces for things like facings, so you won’t have to trace them.

Light weight pellon is not very expensive and is readily available at your local fabric store.  It will fold up nicely to go back into your pattern package and you can use your iron to press out any creases too.  I always keeps a couple of yards of unfusible pellon in my very large sewing stash (that’s another blog in itself)!!

Tracing your additional patterns onto pellon is great especially if you have several children you are sewing for or have a favorite pattern that you use over and over again.  The pellon holds up very well with extended use.

Give this a try, takes a little bit of extra time to trace out your pattern pieces but in the long run your budget with love it!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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