For both designs, I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease yarn and a size H crochet hook. This yarn has such a nice comfy feel to it plus just enough wool for extra warmth but no itchiness!!
You can find these items on my Etsy shop ~~ Mystic Needle too!! www.etsy.com/shop/mysticneedle
HAPPY CREATING!!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”
Crochet Cocktail Dress for Belly Button Barbie
I first want to start with the fact that I’m not a crochet person by nature. My first love is knitting, but as with all yarn or thread, some things just don’t work in one form or another. This is very true with Barbie outfits. I find that crochet works much better for Barbie outfits than knitting, so I put down my knitting needles and picked up my crochet hook. I have to admit this design was inspired by two other dresses I found online, but neither one really fit what I was going for. I wanted a dress that didn’t require snaps, was quick to make, and would work well with Barbie’s hour glass shape. I wanted to make Barbie that little black dress. I’ve listed the site and links at the bottom of this blog if you want to try those dresses out too. So with all of that having been said, here is my version of the little black dress for Barbie. (The pictures at the end are done with red crochet thread and accented with black, because the black wasn’t good for photographs) Supplies: Crochet Thread size 10 Color A (I love Aunt Lydia’s 100% cotton thread, black) Crochet Thread size 10 Color B (In the above dress I used a white metallic aunt lydia’s thread for extra pop) Size 6 (1.8mm) crochet hook I used two colors for this design but you could easily use one color. Also, this pattern is worked vertically not around, so it will feel a little odd until you get to the end, but I promise you will get a great dress perfectly for little hands in the end! The pattern is below with no break in the instructions, but at the end you can find side notes and pictures that give an idea of the steps that I went through while making this dress. Abbreviations: Ch – Chain Dc – Double crochet Hdc – Half double crochet Sc – Single crochet Sts – Stitches Sl st – Slip StitchPATTERN:
Row 1: With Color A ch 37, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 dc, hdc in next 7 chs, sc in next 12 chs, hdc in next 5 chs, dc in next 5 chs. Row 2: Working in BACK LOOPS only, ch 2 (counts as first dc now and throughout), dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 12 sts, hdc in next 7 sts, dc in next 7 sts. Row 3: Working in BACK LOOPS only ch 2, dc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 7 sts, sc in next 12 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts.Repeat Rows 2 & 3 till you have a total of 27 rows.
At this time, there is technically no right or wrong side, so pick the best looking side and call that your right side. Fold the right sides together, and seam up the back with a sc row. When you get done seaming up the back, you can fasten off and weave the yarn that you were working with. DO NOT weave in the end from where you started. This will help you remember which side is the top side until you get your top ruffle completed. At this time, turn your dress right side out. Edging on top: Attach Color A with sc anywhere on the edge of your dc top. Row 1: Ch 1, sc around top edge, join at first sc. A total of 36 scs at the top. This will allow it to go over Barbie’s hips and bust but not fall down. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sts around. Fasten off. At this time you can fasten off all ends, as you easily know the top from bottom. At this time, don’t freak out if the dress kind of has a “bubble” to your work under the edging. Barbie has boobs J The edge at the top will be narrow to keep it up over her chest. Ruffle on top: Most important part, turn the dress upside down and work in opposite direction of the edging you just added. Row 1: Attach Color B with sc in FRONT LOOPS. Ch 2 (this will count as dc throughout), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sts as joining. Skip next 2 sts, *(2dc, ch1, 2dc) in same sts, skip next 2 sts. Repeat around from *. Join with sl st at top of ch2. Total of 12 fan like sections. Row 2: Sl st 2 sts so that you are into the ch 1 space from last round. (Ch 2, 1dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1 space. *(2dc, ch 1, 2dc)in next ch 1 space. Repeat from * and join in top of starting ch 2. Row 3: ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch 1 space around, join to beginning sc. (60 total sc) Row 4: *ch 2, sl st into next st, repeat from * around and join in beginning sl st. Fasten off. Edging on bottom: Attach Color A with sc anywhere on the edge of your dc top. Row 1: Ch 1, 2sc on each edge of dc, join at first sc. A total of 54 scs at the bottom. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sts around. Fasten off. Ruffle on bottom: Attach Color B with a sc anywhere in a sts on edging. Dress again will be upside down for this as well. Row 1: ch 2, dc in same stitch. 1 dc in next sts, *2 dc in next sts, 1 dc in next sts. Repeat from * around and join in top of beginning ch 2. Row 2: *ch 2, sl st in next sts, Repeat from * around and join with l st in first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and enjoy!PICTURES AND SIDE NOTES:
When you start this, the dress will want to roll and spin on you. At the end of the first row if your dress looks like this, everything will be OK!! Please note for these pictures below Color A is red and Color B is black.
Around Row 9 or 10 the dress will finally stop curling on you. At least for me it does.
The top of your dress will be the end with the 5 dc and 5 hdc. I can easily remember it because the string that I was left from my slipknot in the beginning is at the top of the dress. I don’t weave in that end until the VERY end, that way I always know which end is the top of the dress.
When you have finished your 27 total rows you will have something that looks like an hour glass.
Here is what the dress looks like after I have seemed up the back with a row of scs.
Here is what the dress looks like with the two rows of sc at the top. Notice the “bubble”
Don’t freak out if the ruffle stands “up” once you get it finished it will lay flat as you continue to work it.
Here is the final product
Sources of Inspiration:
Dress that helped with the body design of this outfit: http://crochetforbarbie.blogspot.com/2013/04/summer-skies-top-and-skirt-set.html
Dress that helped the top ruffle of this outfit: http://crochetforbarbie.blogspot.com/2013/08/i-saw-picture-of-little-girl-in-white.html
Thank you Jess for sharing this great pattern. I hope you all enjoy crocheting it as much as I am going too!! Perfect gift for the little girls on my Christmas list 🙂
HAPPY CREATING!!
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ShelleysCrochetOle – https://www.etsy.com/shop/shelleysCrochetOle
Take a moment, relax with your favorite cup of tea or joe and do some window shopping!! It will help rejuvenate your “little grey cells” and maybe you will find that perfect something for that special person!!
HAPPY CREATING!!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”
Working on ideas for updating my blog to include guest bloggers/guest ravelers and maybe setting up some type of give away program. Still working on these ideas but feel confident that new things are heading this way.
As always, crocheted more donation beanies for the Headhugger organizer and our local hospital’s maternity ward. Actually, designed a beanie which I really love to crochet beginning at the bottom edge and working your way to the crown. Planning to share that as a free pattern soon. Also created a pretty cool looking loopy embellishment for beanies that will be available soon as a purchased item from my mysticmeems profile on Ravelry.
Found a super fun crochet bootie (free pattern) from crochethooksyou.com that makes a lovely little gift item. I tweaked the pattern a little but works up fast and is also perfect for baby dolls and/or stuffed animals too. Little ones always love to put booties on their favorite animals!! Take a moment and visit Paula Daniele’s blog (click on above link) to see her other items too. Here’s a few pairs that I have done and now trying to decide how I want to embellish them.
Enjoy the remaining “dog days” of summer — grilling yummy brats, hamburgers, corn on the cob, munching watermelon (I miss seed spitting contests, since seedless watermelons arrived on the scene), and preparing fresh tomatoes and green beans from the garden. Don’t forget about those prolific zucchinis too that I’m always trying to find different ways of using them!!
Take time to enjoy the warmth and friendship of family and neighbors. Squeeze a ball of yarn or run your fingers down a new bolt of fabric (something to add to your holiday “wish list”) and let your creative juices flow.
HAPPY CREATING!!!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”
I started with 12 chains and completed my first SC in the 2nd chain from the hook. Insert your hook in the single top loop only of the chain to complete your actual first single crochet. You will have 11 working stitches when that row is completed. At the end of the row, I will chain 1 and turn and begin my next row of SC stitches inserting through both loops in new row.
HERE ARE STEP BY STEP DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO DO THE SC:
You will have one loop on your hook and insert it through both loops on the first stitch of the new row. Remember, you do not want to go into the chain that you just made. Once your hook has been inserted, yarn over (yo) your hook and bring that loop back through the double loop. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over (yo) again and pull that loop through both of the loops on your hook which will leave you with just one loop left on the hook.
You have just completed one single crochet (sc) stitch. Continue in this fashion for a total of 11 stitches. When you come to the end of your row, chain 1 and turn your work and repeat the above stitch information for another 11 stitches. Keep repeating this process.
Making a single crochet swatch is fun and you can create many things from just doing this one stitch. A simple scarf, headband, bracelet, baby blanket whatever you want to make.
This is also a wonderful stitch to teach a child who wants to learn to crochet. Use a large hook size, maybe H or I for a beginner or child, and a worsted weight to chunky yarn (category 4 or 5). Easier to see the different loops that are created and easy to work with especially for little fingers and hands.
HAPPY CREATING!!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”