Sewing a Tote Bag: PART ONE

Jan17

I found a remnant of burlap fabric with inked pictures of Winnie the Pooh on it and thought “Oh how cute!” bought it and got it home and then thought “What was I going to do with it?” It was only about 13 1/2 inches wide but a nice long length of about 50 inches.

Now that the Christmas holidays have past, I again looked at that remnant and imagined a very nice large toy tote bag, PERFECT! So here are my directions for sewing the tote bag. PART ONE: What I needed to do first was make the burlap fabric wide enough so I added a 3 inch wide strip of black cotton fabric from my stash to each side of the burlap. I only sewed a 1/4 inch seam allowance because I wanted a maximum width of about 17 or 18 inches. After stitching on both strips, I then serged them and pressed the seam towards the black fabric. Next I sewed a decorative fagoting stitch as a top stitch to keep that seam permanently in place. Now my finished piece of fabric is approximately 19″ wide by 45″ long. Sorry, lots of shedding from the burlap!!

Now I took that piece of fabric and laid it on top of another cotton fabric (right sides together) that I used as my guide to cut out a lining for the tote – so now I have 2 pieces of fabric 19″ wide x 45″ long.

Next I made the straps, using the same black cotton fabric for them. I cut my straps 3 inches wide by 21 inches long. I folded the straps in half (wrong sides together) and pressed with the iron. This is for a registration/reference line. Open up your strap and with wrong sides facing you, fold each side in to the pressed line. Iron in place, then fold so that your two non-raw side edges meet and press again. Sew close to the edge, turn and stitch along the narrow edge, turn and stitch close to the opposite edge to create a nice top stitching effect for your strap.

Now your straps are ready to be sewn onto your main fabric tote. Strap placement is a personal option but you want to make sure they will provide good balance and support for whatever you put inside your tote. For this toy tote, I placed my straps 3 1/2 inches in from the side seam on the right side of the main fabric. Do a baste stitch to hold the straps in place. Make 2 straps and attach at each end of your long fabric piece.

Continue by going to Sewing a Tote Bag PART TWO blog. I know this is a long post but wanted to describe thoroughly.

HAPPY CREATING!!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”

Sewing a Tote Bag: PART TWO

Jan17

PART TWO: With right sides together, fold your main fabric in half (lengthwise) by bringing the bottom of the fabric to meet the top of the fabric to sew the side seams, I used a 1/2 inch seam allowance. You will then do that same step with the lining fabric. I also serged the edges of both sections. Do not turn right side out yet. Press the bottom edge of each section to create a registration/reference line to use to form a square boxed bottom for your tote. With right sides together, open out the main fabric at bag bottom and place your pressed registration line perfectly on top of the side seam. Then draw a chalk line 2 inches from the point/tip of your fabric. Do the same thing to your lining fabric as well. Now sew along the edge of your chalk line, serge the edge or just cut it off with your scissors to remove the point. You will do this 4 times for each side seam (2 for main fabric/2 for lining fabric). This will create for you a nice 4 inch wide square bottom for your tote and the lining too.

Now you can turn your MAIN fabric to the right side, DON’T turn out the lining yet. At this point, you are ready to attach your main fabric to the lining fabric with right sides together. Slide your main fabric which should be on the right side, inserting it into the lining which should have the wrong side facing out (check that you have right sides together). Make sure your straps are hanging towards the bottom of the bag on the inside (sandwiched between your fabric and lining). Now pin your top edges leaving an opening of about 6 inches between the straps for turning purposes. Stitch around in a 1″ seam. Sometimes it is helpful to use the same color pin head for your beginning stitching and ending stitching which is different from your other pins. Just a visual reminder to leave an opening for turning.

Turn your tote to the right side, pulling your straps through the opening too. Push your lining down into your tote. Press down the opening so that it is even with your top edges. Sew a top stitch row around the entire bag, stitching shut your opening and making sure it is close to the edge.

Folded down opening edges – ready for top stitching

Now make another row of stitching around the entire top of the bag. Finish it off with a good pressing and get ready to fill it full of goodies. Mine will be used for Lego blocks!!!

My toy tote finished size is 17 1/2 inches wide by 18″ long with a 4 inch wide bottom. A half yard of fabric and a half of yard of lining will make a very nice size tote bag. You wouldn’t even need to do the contrasting sides. I needed this to get the width I want. This style of tote making is a good one for a beginner sewer. Even a young child who is familiar with a sewing machine could make this pattern. Lots of flexibility too within the design, size and width of bag, size and width of straps, to pocket or not to pocket. Think about whether you want to use an interlining fabric for added strength or a denim/canvas fabric for the straps. Let those creative juices flow and design something that is unique and special for you!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links – “Commissions Earned”

DSC04665-001

Jan17

DSC04665-001, a photo by mysticmeems on Flickr.

Completed Tote Bag

Magnetic Clasp Sewing Tips

Jan9

As I have mentioned in my previous post, I like using the magnetic clasps for many projects. Recently was sewing a very small tab closure and used the tab for one part of the magnetic clasp. Because I was doing top stitching for a nice finished edge, the metal clasp was on the bottom and would catch on the feed dogs and would slip a little.

So had to get the creative juices flowing and figure out what I could do to prevent that clasp catching on the feed dogs. After rummaging through my sewing drawers to see what I had on hand, I decided to use repositionable scotch tape to place over the magnetic clasp. Made for a very smooth underside of my tab closure and the clasp slid along the feed dogs without catching!! Because I used repositionable or removable scotch tape, it left no residue on the clasp or my fabric.

Another little tip I find helpful, is to use some iron-on pellon fleece on the wrong side of the fabric that doesn’t hold the magnetic clasp. It gives a little cushion so that your clasp outline doesn’t show on the right side of your finished work.

Also, because of the small size of the tab, using my zipper foot kept the pressure foot from resting on the tab too so that my top stitching came out perfect every time!!