Simple Crochet Scalloped Edge Scarf

Sep27

Wow, can’t believe how fast winter is approaching so here’s a pretty easy crochet pattern for a cozy scarf.  It’s simple because it is repetitious and a good design that can be worked while watching TV.   Also, you will have a lot of design flexibility with this pattern to fit your specific needs.

My example is made using one skein (50 grams/183 yards) Plymouth Yarn, Dreambaby DK, and a size G (4.00mm) hook.   I am crocheting my scarf for a toddler (2-year-old) so my width is only about 4″  but you can design your scarf to any width as long as your chain stitches are a multiple of 3 (any number of chains that can be evenly divided by 3).

I used the single crochet foundation chain for my beginning base.  For my example, I completed a total of 15 single crochet foundation chains.  Do not turn your work.

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In the 3rd chain from hook, you will work 2 double crochets (DC), 2 chains, and 1 single crochet (SC) in that one chain (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc).   * Skip the next 2 chains and crochet your pattern again (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in that chain.  Repeat from * until your first row is completed.  Do not turn.

Crochet 2 chain stitches and now you will begin working along the back side of your foundation chains.  In first stitch *(2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc),  skip next 2 chains and repeat from * until you reach the end of the row ending with your (2dc, ch 2, 1 sc).  Turn.

**Chain 2, skip the first SC, and in the ch 2 space work (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc), *skip the next 2 dc and 1 sc, and in next ch 2 space work your scallop stitch (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) again.  Repeat from * until the end of the row.  You will skip the last 2 dc, turn, and repeat from **.  Continue this crochet pattern until you have the finished length that you want for your scarf.

Pattern design

For the toddler pattern, I like to have my length around 40″ so the scarf can be folded in half and slide the two ends through the fold to loosely secure it around the child’s neck and tuck inside their coat.  Remember, the length can be whatever fits your design.

Quick ‘n Cozy Winter Beanie with the Scalloped Scarf

Perfect way to stay snuggly warm for the upcoming winter season.  Makes a wonderful gift set too!!

HAPPY CREATING!!

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A Quick ‘n Cozy Crocheted Fun Winter Beanie

Aug26

There is nothing like a cozy crocheted beanie hat for winter, especially to hide those “bad hair” days!!  This pattern is super simple and can be crocheted to your own designs very easily too.  You can make one of these cute beanies in an evening while watching TV!

I begin the beanie by “working in the round” to create the crown piece for the hat using a double crochet (DC) stitch and continue working  in the round until I fasten off.  For an adult beanie, I use a crochet hook (Size I), crocheting in the round completing through the fifth round.  Please refer to blog post Crochet Designing Tips – Working in the Round for complete instructions on how to create your circle.Example of DC crown piece

Once I have completed the fifth round of increases for my crown piece circle, I join with a slip stitch, CH 2 and continue making my DC rounds (no more increases) until I get to the finished length that works for me, which is an additional 13-15 rounds.  NOTE:  At the end of each DC round, I join with a SL stitch and CH 2 and then proceed with my DC.  This helps to keep the shape intact.   I like to be able to fold up my beanie a couple of inches on itself for extra warmth for my ears.  You have creativity here based on your desires and likes, if you don’t want to be able to fold up your beanie than only crochet an additional 12-13 rounds and if you want a deeper fold maybe crochet 16-17 extra rounds.  It really is a personal preference.

After completing my DC rounds, I like to give a finished look to the beanie by crocheting another 3 rounds of single crochet (SC) stitches. Sample beanie

Just remember when working in the round to be sure to place a marker to indicate a row/round so you know where you are in the pattern and to help with counting your rows/rounds.

This is a very easy pattern that can be adjusted to fit many different sizes for babies, children and adults.  Just change your crochet hook size and the number of rounds after making your crown piece circle.  Hook size recommendations and suggested rounds for different sizes  once you have your crown piece circle completed are:

  • Size F for newborn (maybe D or E if you’re making for a preemie) and  7 DC rounds plus 3 rounds of SC
  • Size G for toddlers and  10 DC rounds plus 3 rounds of SC
  • Size H for children and 12-13 DC rounds plus 3 rounds of SC
  • Size I for adults and 13-15 DC rounds plus 3 rounds of SC

Again, the rounds are a personal preference thing depending upon what look you want from the finished beanie.  Once you have made one or two, you will know what works best for your needs.

Have fun with this pattern and experiment with different stitches too.  You could crochet this pattern is all half double crochet (HDC) stitches if you want.  Just remember it is a shorter length stitch and you might need to increase your rows/rounds to get the length desired.

Another look would be to complete  your crown circle piece in DC and then alternate your rounds between DC and HDC finishing off with a couple of rows of SC.  Adding crochet motifs to your beanie will give it a truly custom look too.

This is a truly wonderful beanie pattern for making extras to donate to schools, hospitals, etc.

FYI:  I like to use a 4 ply worsted weight yarn that has some lamb wool blended in for good warmth.  One skein will complete an adult beanie easily.

 HAPPY CREATING!! 

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Ups and Downs of Making a Fabric Yo-Yo

Aug18

Fabric yo-yos are one of the easiest embellishments to make for your special project.  They are also a great way to use up some of those scraps that you have stashed away.  Also, they are a fun thing to do with your child to create a new look.

The yo-yo pattern is a basic circle.  Your circle pattern needs to be twice as wide as you want your finished yo-yo plus a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Once you have determined the size of your yo-yo pattern, draw and cut it out on a piece of heavy stock card paper or use plastic template material found in quilting supplies.  Use a compass to make your circle or trace around something you might have on hand, (a drinking glass, a CD, a tin can) or purchase a  yo-yo maker or a quilter’s template for circles.  Here I used a roll of packing tape!!

Next trace your pattern onto the wrong side of your fabric.  Some fabric choices that work best for making yo-yos are cotton, light weight denim, flannel, wool, light weight corduroy, and felt.  Remember, you will be gathering up your fabric circle to form the yo-yo, so it is best to use lighter weight materials.  Cut out your yo-yo with scissors or a rotary cutter.  Remember, if working with a child you might have to do the cutting.

Now you will be folding in your 1/4″ seam allowance onto the wrong side of your fabric with gathering stitches.  You can usually just eyeball your 1/4″ seam allowance, however, if you want to insure your seam allowance is consistent, you can sew a line of stitching 1/4″ from edge of circle and then fold in on that stitch line.  I like to knot one end of my gathering stitch at the beginning and I strongly recommend using a heavy/strong thread for this step.   I have had great success with Dual Duty by Coats and Clark.  Also, keep in mind that short gathering stitches will create a larger, more open center on your yo-yo and longer gathering stitches will make tighter center.  Something to keep in mind when determining what look you want for your finished yoyo.


To begin the gathering, pull the knotted end of thread out about 3-4″ and continue gathering from the other end until you have it as tight as you want.  Once gathered, tie a tight square knot (right over left and then left over right) with your thread for a secure closure.  Flatten and smooth out your finished yo-yo.  Sew on buttons in the center for flowers, make a smaller yo-yo and sew on top of the larger yo-yo for a dimensional effect, make streamers with yarn or threads to hang from the yo-yo itself, let your imagine run wild.

Yo-yos make wonderful appliques (add fabric stems and leaves for flowers), decorate a headband, use them for pins or pocket accents,  or add them to your jeans for a fun look too, the idea list is endless.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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Sewing Knit Cuffs Picture Tutorial

Aug8

With cooler weather somewhere around the corner, you might be thinking of sewing some pj’s for the little ones or maybe a pair of “comfy” pants to lounge around in the house.  Adding ribbed knit cuffs to a pattern or even to an already made piece of clothing is not too difficult.

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I particularly like to add them to pajamas to help keep you warmer and I think they are a lot more comfortable than elastic around the wrist or ankle.  You can convert any pattern that calls for elastic at the wrist and make yourself a ribbed cuff in its place.

Measure your wrist and/or ankle and add 1″ to that figure.  That calculation will be your width measurement when cutting out your ribbed knit fabric.  The length measurement is kind of a personal preference thing  –  I like to have a finished cuff measure 3″ long, so I will cut my length measurement 7″ long.  This 7″ allows for my cuff to be folded in half ( 3 1/2″) and then allows for a 1/2″ seam allowance.  So whatever your desired finished cuff length is, double that measurement and add 1″ to it for a 1/2″ seam allowance.

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Now that you have your width and length measurements, cut out a paper or pellon pattern to use on the ribbing fabric.  You want the fabric ribs to be going vertical on the cuff with the stretchiest part going horizontal which will be placed along the sleeve or pant edge.  You will need one fabric pattern piece per sleeve or pant leg and cut out 2 of each.

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With right sides together, fold your cuff pattern together with the width end measurements touching.  Sew a narrow 1/4″ seam using a stretch stitch.  Now serge along that same seam or use a narrow zigzag stitch or overcast stitch if you don’t have a serger.  Fold in half, wrong sides together (seam lines matching).   You actually have a cuff ready to be sewn to your garment.

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Sew your sleeve or pants together according to your pattern directions, no need for hems or elastic if you are adding the cuffs.   To insure your cuff is evenly spaced around, you will want to mark off your sleeve/pant as well as the cuff into fourths.  Place a pin at the sleeve/pant seam, place another pin at the opposite side of the sleeve/pant, then find center between those two spots and place two more pins one on the top and one on the bottom of the sleeve/pant.  You now have four evenly spaced pin placements to use to match your cuff.  You will do the same thing on the cuff, place a pin at the seam, one directly across from it and then find center on top and bottom of cuff.  Place right sides together matching your pins.   Now you are ready to sew the cuff to your sleeve or pant leg.

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Sewing the cuff to the sleeve/pant itself can be a little tricky because you will need to stretch the cuff but not the sleeve/pant  fabric.  You will keep your sleeve/pant wrong side of fabric against your sewing machine.  The right side will be inside and you will place your cuff inside the sleeve/pant garment for stretching the cuff while your sew.  Match your pin placements with right sides together.

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Beginning at one of the matching pin placements, begin sewing a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Stretch the cuff while you sew so that the second pin placement on the cuff matches to the second pin placement on the sleeve and continue around matching all four pin placements with each other and joining stitching line.  To give your seam a clean finished look, you can serge the seam or stitch with a narrow zigzag or overcast stitch on the edge.

After you have sewn in your cuff, I like to add a decorative stitching on the outside to help hold the serged seam in place.  I sew from the wrong side, holding down the seam and making sure the fabric underneath is smooth and flat.

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Turn your sleeve right side out and you now have a wonderful cuff attached that will keep cool air out and help sleeve to stay in its place and not fall down over your hand.  I like to add cuffs to pant bottoms too for the same reasons.  If sewing for a child, you can add a little extra length to your pant pattern to allow for growth and the cuff will help to keep that extra length from dragging on the floor.

HAPPY CREATING!!

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